What Kind of Paint Is Used to Paint Brick?

Brick is charming. Brick is classic. Brick is also the one building material that will quietly punish you
if you treat it like drywall in a sweater vest.

So if you’re staring at a red brick wall (or an entire brick house) and thinking, “What kind of paint is used to paint brick?”
the real answer is: a paint system designed for masonryand it has to respect brick’s biggest personality trait:
it breathes.

Brick 101: Why “Regular Wall Paint” Isn’t the Hero Here

Brick and mortar are porous. They absorb moisture and release moisture. That’s not a flawit’s part of how
masonry survives weather, humidity swings, and (in colder climates) freeze-thaw cycles.

When you coat brick with the wrong productespecially something that forms a tight, plastic-y filmmoisture can get trapped.
Over time, that can lead to bubbling, peeling, efflorescence (the white salty stuff), or even spalling (brick faces breaking down).
Translation: your “simple makeover” becomes a “why is my wall crying?” situation.

Should You Paint Brick at All?

Before we pick paint, let’s do a quick reality check. Many masonry and brick industry resources treat painting brick as a
last resort because it changes how the wall manages moisture and usually creates ongoing maintenance.
Once you paint brick, you’re basically signing up for a long-term relationship… with periodic touch-ups.

When painting brick makes sense

• Brick that’s already painted (you’re maintaining a previous decision, not starting a new one).
• Cosmetic mismatch (repairs/additions where matching brick is impossible).
• Interior feature brick (accent walls, fireplaces surrounds) where exposure is controlled.
• Sound, dry, well-draining exterior brick in good condition.

When painting brick is a bad idea

• Moisture problems: leaks, missing flashing, failing gutters, wet basements, chronic damp patches.
• Soft or historic brick (older masonry can be more vulnerable to trapped moisture).
• Active efflorescence you haven’t addressed (it’s usually a moisture clue, not just “brick dandruff”).
• Cracked/spalling brick or failing mortar joints that need repair first.

If you want color without the “paint film” commitment, consider breathable alternatives like
brick stain, limewash, or mineral/silicate coatingswe’ll cover them below.

The Best Paint for Brick (Most of the Time): 100% Acrylic Latex Masonry Paint

If you’re asking what kind of paint is used to paint brick in typical DIY and pro scenarios,
the go-to answer is:

A high-quality, breathable 100% acrylic latex paint formulated for masonry (interior or exterior, depending on location).

Why acrylic latex works well on brick

• Breathability: helps moisture vapor escape instead of getting trapped behind the coating.
• Flexibility: handles minor expansion/contraction better than older-style coatings.
• Durability: exterior acrylics typically hold up well to UV and weathering.
• Ease of application: rollers and brushes can get it done without special equipment.

Practical example: An interior brick accent wall in a living room usually does great with a quality acrylic latex topcoat
over a masonry-rated primer. An exterior brick home often does best with an exterior 100% acrylic system built for porous masonry.

When You Need More Stretch: Elastomeric Masonry Coatings

Elastomeric coatings are the “yoga pants” of masonry painthigh-build, flexible, and designed to bridge tiny hairline cracks.
They’re commonly used on stucco and masonry where movement and small cracking are expected.

When elastomeric makes sense

• Exterior walls with hairline cracking (after you fix underlying causes).
• Surfaces that benefit from a thicker, crack-bridging film.
• Vertical masonry in harsh weather exposure (again: on sound, properly prepped substrates).

What to watch out for

• Moisture management: even if a product claims breathability, thick films can still complicate drying if the wall is damp.
• Prep sensitivity: elastomerics can fail dramatically if applied over dirty, chalky, or wet masonry.
• Not a magic waterproofing fix: if water is getting behind the wall assembly, paint won’t “seal” your way out of that problem.

Think of elastomeric as a performance coating for the right situation, not a default.
If your brick is healthy and stable, a breathable 100% acrylic system is often simpler and safer.

The Most Breathable “Paint-Like” Option: Mineral/Silicate Paint

Mineral silicate paints (often associated with brands that specialize in masonry coatings) behave differently than typical latex paint.
Instead of forming a purely surface film, they’re designed to chemically bond with mineral substrates.
The big selling point: high breathability and long-term durability when used correctly.

Best use cases for mineral/silicate coatings

• Brick you want to color while keeping excellent vapor permeability.
• Projects where peeling risk must be minimized (with correct prep and compatible substrate).
• Situations where you want a more “masonry-native” finish than a typical paint film.

If you’re painting older or more sensitive masonry, mineral systems can be worth consideringespecially when breathability is
the top priority and the substrate is appropriate.

The Classic Alternative: Limewash (Not Exactly Paint, But It’s Gorgeous)

Limewash is a mineral-based coating used for centuries. Instead of sitting on top like typical paint,
it’s known for bonding to masonry and maintaining breathability. It delivers a soft, matte, Old World finish
like your brick just came back from a European vacation with excellent taste.

Why people choose limewash

• Breathable finish that’s friendlier to masonry than many paints.
• Textural lookbrick character still shows through.
• A more natural patina over time (instead of obvious peeling sheets).

Limewash can be a smart choice when you want brightness without fully “sealing” the brick under a conventional paint film.
It’s not identical to paint, but it answers the same design itch: “I want this brick to be a different color.”

Brick Stain: The Underappreciated Option That Often Beats Paint

If your brick is exterior and you’re nervous about paint maintenance, brick stain deserves a serious look.
Unlike paint, stain is designed to penetrate and tint rather than create a thick film over the surface.

Why stain can be a better long-term move

• Preserves more of the brick’s natural texture.
• Can reduce the “peeling paint” problem because it’s not relying on a surface film the same way.
• Often looks more natural from the curb (and doesn’t scream “I was trendy in 2016!”).

Not every brick is a perfect candidate, and color range can be more limited than paint, but staining can be a strong
compromise between aesthetics and masonry performance.

Primer: The Secret Ingredient Your Brick Project Will Absolutely Judge You For Skipping

Brick is porous, dusty, and sometimes alkaline (high pH)especially newer masonry. That’s why masonry-rated primers matter.
A good primer helps with adhesion, evens out porosity so your finish coat doesn’t look blotchy, and can improve resistance
to alkali and efflorescence issues.

Look for primers labeled for masonry, concrete, and brick

• Acrylic masonry primer for porous surfaces (often marketed as masonry conditioner/sealer).
• Alkali-resistant properties, especially for newer masonry or high-pH surfaces.
• Block-filler or high-build primers if the surface is extremely porous or rough.

The primer choice should match the system you’re using. The safest approach is to follow the paint manufacturer’s own
spec for brick/masonry (because “I saw a guy do it on TikTok” is not a warranty program).

Prep Work: Where Brick Paint Jobs Are Won (Or Quietly Ruined)

A brick wall can look solid and still have issues that make paint fail. Prep is not glamorous, but it’s the reason your
finish lasts longer than a seasonal latte.

1) Inspect and fix moisture first

• Repair leaking gutters/downspouts and improve drainage.
• Check flashing near roofs, chimneys, and windows.
• Address basement seepage or interior dampness before coating.

2) Repair masonry problems

• Repoint failing mortar joints (or hire a mason for larger repairs).
• Replace spalled or badly damaged bricks.
• Let repairs cure properly before painting.

3) Clean thoroughly and allow it to dry

• Remove dirt, mildew, soot, and chalky residue.
• If efflorescence is present, address the moisture source and remove deposits properly.
• Allow multiple dry daysbrick that feels dry can still hold moisture in its pores.

4) Respect cure time for new masonry

New brick/mortar needs time to cure. Many masonry resources and product guidance commonly reference
roughly a month (often 30 days) before coating new masonry, though specifics vary by product type and conditions.

Application Tips That Actually Matter on Brick

Use the right tools

• Thick-nap roller for textured surfaces (brick is basically texture in a trench coat).
• Brush work for mortar joints and deep crevices.
• Consider back-rolling after spraying to push paint into pores and even out coverage.

Plan for two coats (sometimes more)

Brick drinks paint. A primer plus two finish coats is typical for an even, durable result.
Cutting corners here often results in “patchy chic,” which is only cute if it was intentional.

Watch the weather (exterior projects)

• Avoid painting right before rain or during heavy humidity.
• Follow the manufacturer’s temperature minimums and maximums.
• Don’t paint brick that’s damp from rain, washing, or morning dew.

Special Situations: Fireplaces, Basements, and Previously Painted Brick

Painting a brick fireplace: surround vs. firebox

If you’re painting the surround (the visible brick around the opening), a masonry primer plus a quality interior acrylic latex paint
is commonly used.

If you’re painting the inside of the firebox (where flames and high heat happen), that’s a different world.
Standard wall paint is not appropriatethis area typically requires high-heat rated products designed for elevated temperatures.
If you actively use the fireplace, choose products specifically intended for that heat exposure.

Basement or below-grade brick

Below-grade walls often deal with moisture pressure. Painting them without solving water intrusion can lead to failure.
If you’re seeing dampness, peeling, or salt deposits, treat the moisture problem first and then select a system intended for that environment.

Previously painted brick

If the existing paint is sound (not peeling, not chalking heavily), you may be able to clean, spot-prime, and repaint with a compatible coating.
If it’s failing, you’ll need to remove loose material, stabilize the surface, and prime appropriately before topcoating.

Maintenance: Painted Brick Is Not “Set It and Forget It”

Even the right paint can’t outsmart physics forever. Expect periodic cleaning, touch-ups, and eventual repainting
especially on sun- and weather-exposed elevations.

• Keep gutters and grading in good shape to reduce moisture load.
• Wash dirt and mildew gently as needed.
• Address cracks and failing caulk early so water doesn’t get behind the coating.

Real-World Experiences (500+ Words): What People Learn After Painting Brick

Here’s what tends to show up in real projectshomeowner stories, contractor habits, and the “oops” moments that teach fast lessons.
Think of these as field notes from the land of porous surfaces.

Experience #1: “The paint looked amazing… until winter.”

A common storyline goes like this: an older brick exterior gets painted in late summer. It looks incredible for months.
Then winter arrives, moisture moves through the wall like it always has, and the coating starts to blister in patches.
The lesson isn’t “never paint brick.” It’s: brick needs a breathable system and a dry, well-draining wall assembly.
If gutters overflow, downspouts dump water near the foundation, or the wall stays damp, paint becomes the messenger that gets shot.

Experience #2: “I skipped primer because the paint said ‘paint + primer.’”

On drywall, paint-and-primer products can be fine. On brick, skipping a masonry primer often means uneven sheen, blotchy coverage,
and adhesion issuesespecially on dusty or chalky surfaces. People frequently report that the second coat still looks thirsty,
like the brick is quietly sipping your budget. The lesson: masonry primer is less optional than it sounds,
because it helps seal porosity and creates a consistent base.

Experience #3: “Power washing fixed everything… and also caused everything.”

Brick cleaning is necessary, but aggressive pressure washing can carve out mortar, force water deep into the wall,
and leave you painting damp masonry (the worst kind of optimism). Many successful projects treat cleaning as a gentle-but-thorough step:
remove grime and mildew, rinse carefully, then wait for the wall to truly dry.
The experience-based takeaway: cleaning is not the finish line. Drying time is.

Experience #4: “Elastomeric solved my cracks… but highlighted my prep mistakes.”

Some people choose elastomeric coatings because they want extra durability or crack-bridging. When applied on a well-prepped,
sound wall, it can look smooth and uniform. But when it’s applied over leftover chalkiness, dirt, or marginal adhesion,
the coating can peel in dramatic sheetslike a sticker that never really stuck. The lesson: higher-performance coatings
demand higher-performance prep. If you’re going elastomeric, treat the wall like you’re prepping for company (the picky kind).

Experience #5: “I wanted ‘whitewash’… and accidentally did ‘sealed-in moisture.’”

The “whitewashed brick” look is popular, but many DIY whitewash recipes rely on diluted acrylic paint. That can look good indoors,
yet it still forms a filmespecially with multiple coats. People who later learn about limewash often say,
“I wish I’d known there was a breathable way to get this vibe.” The takeaway: if your main goal is an airy, softened brick look,
consider limewash or mineral coatings instead of a heavy paint film, especially outdoors.

Experience #6: “The project was easyuntil we hit the lead paint rule.”

In older homes, prep can disturb existing coatings, and that can trigger lead-safety requirements and best practices.
People are often surprised that painting can involve containment, HEPA cleanup, and specific rules when pre-1978 surfaces are involved.
The practical lesson: if you’re dealing with older painted masonry, it’s smart to check lead-safe guidance and consider a certified pro
for anything that creates dust. It’s not dramait’s avoiding a problem you can’t sweep up with good intentions.

Put all that together and a pattern appears: the best brick paint jobs aren’t just about buying “the best paint.”
They’re about matching the coating to the wall’s moisture behavior, using the right primer, and prepping like you want the finish to last.
(Because you do.)

Bottom Line: So, What Kind of Paint Is Used to Paint Brick?

For most interior and exterior projects, the most common answer is:
a breathable, high-quality 100% acrylic latex masonry paint used with a masonry-rated primer.
If the wall needs extra crack-bridging, an elastomeric masonry coating may be appropriate.
If breathability and masonry-compatibility are your top prioritiesespecially on sensitive brickconsider
mineral/silicate paint or limewash.

And if you want to preserve the brick look while changing color, brick stain is often the sleeper pick that deserves more attention.