DIY Pillow Shams For $7!

Pillow shams are one of those sneaky “why is this so expensive?” bedding purchases. They’re basically decorative pillow coversoften with a tidy flange borderthat make a bed look styled, intentional, and suspiciously hotel-like. But in stores, they can cost more than the actual pillows you’re stuffing inside them, which feels like paying admission to sit down.

The good news: you can get the same finished, layered look for around $7 for a pair if you shop smart (clearance pillowcases are the MVP) and keep the construction simple. This guide breaks down a budget-friendly pillow-sham makeover inspired by the “$7 shams” spiritplus two reliable methods (sew and no-zipper envelope), optional “fancy” upgrades, and the practical details most tutorials skip (like how to stop floppy flanges from collapsing like a tired pancake).

What a Pillow Sham Actually Is (And Why It Looks Fancier Than a Pillowcase)

A pillowcase is designed for sleeping: it’s usually open on the side and meant to get washed often. A pillow sham is designed for presentation: it typically opens in the back (often an envelope overlap) so you don’t see the pillow or the opening when the bed is made. Many shams also have a flangean extra fabric border that frames the pillow like it’s getting its portrait painted.

Common pillow sham sizes (so you don’t sew yourself into a corner)

• Standard: fits a 20″ x 26″ pillow
• Queen: fits a 20″ x 30″ pillow
• King: fits a 20″ x 36″ pillow
• Euro: fits a 26″ x 26″ pillow (the “back row” bed pillow that screams “grown-up home”)

A great rule of thumb for a fuller look: make the sham cover about 1″ smaller than the pillow insert in each direction (unless your fabric is super thick or you want a looser, slouchier vibe).

The $7 Game Plan: Where the Savings Really Come From

The “$7 for a pair” trick isn’t magicit’s math. The biggest cost is fabric, so your win condition is finding fabric already hemmed, already sized, and on clearance. That’s why pillowcases are perfect: they’re pre-finished rectangles with clean edges, and you can convert them into sham-style backs without starting from zero.

A realistic $7-ish cost breakdown

• 2 clearance standard pillowcases: $5 (watch clearance aisles and seasonal transitions)
• Ribbon or trim (optional ties or detail): $2 (or skip it)
• Thread / needle: usually already in the house (cost per project is pennies)

If you already own thread, pins, and a basic sewing needle, you’re basically one clearance score away from victory. And if you don’t sew? You can still pull this off with iron-on hem tape or fabric adhesivemore on that in a minute.

Tools and Materials

Budget materials list

• Two pillowcases (standard size is easiest to start with)
• Two pillow inserts (or the pillows you already sleep on)
• Measuring tape or ruler
• Fabric scissors (or sharp regular scissors)
• Iron + ironing board (or a flat heat-safe surface)

Choose your method

• Sew method: sewing machine (fast) or hand needle (slower but doable), pins/clips, thread
• No-sew method: iron-on hem tape OR fabric glue, plus patience and snacks

Method 1: Convert Pillowcases into Sham-Style Envelope Backs (Beginner-Friendly Sewing)

This method keeps the clean look of a sham (hidden back opening), without zippers, buttons, or the emotional trauma of installing a perfectly straight invisible zip. You’ll create a back overlap, so the pillow slips in and stays covered.

Step 1: Measure your pillow and decide the finished look

Start with the pillow insert size. If you’re using a standard pillow (20″ x 26″), decide whether you want a snug fit (recommended for crisp corners) or a relaxed fit (easier insertion).

• Crisp fit: aim for a cover about 19″ x 25″ finished
• Relaxed fit: aim for about 20″ x 26″ finished

If you’re using existing pillowcases, you’re working with what you’ve gotso your “pattern” becomes: “make the opening disappear in the back and tighten/shape as needed.”

Step 2: Turn the pillowcase into a sham front

Pick the prettier side for the front. If the pillowcase has a stitched “cuff” end, decide whether you want that detail visible (it can look intentional) or hidden (more modern).

Step 3: Create the envelope overlap on the back

The goal is two overlapping panels. Since a pillowcase is one tube, you’ll open it up and reconfigure the back. Here’s the simplest approach:

1. Turn the pillowcase inside out and lay it flat.
2. Decide where you want the back opening to be (centered looks most “sham-like”).
3. Cut along one layer only (so you create two flaps). Stop a few inches from the edges so the corners stay stable.
4. Hem the raw cut edges (a double-fold hem looks clean and resists fraying).
5. Overlap the two flaps by about 6–10 inches (more overlap = less chance of gapping).

That overlap range matters. Too small and your pillow will “peek” through like a toddler playing hide-and-seek behind a lamp. Too big and you’ll wrestle the pillow like it owes you money.

Step 4: Sew the perimeter and reinforce the overlap

With the pillowcase still inside out, pin around the outside edges. Make sure to pin through all layers where the overlap happensthis is the spot that loves to shift at the last second.

• Sew around the perimeter with a straight stitch (about 1/2″ seam allowance works well).
• Backstitch at the corners and along the overlap area.
• Trim bulk at corners (diagonal snip) so the corners turn neatly.

Step 5: Turn, press, and insert

Turn right-side out, poke corners gently (no scissors stabbingtoday we choose safety), and press flat with an iron. Insert pillow through the envelope opening.

Pro tip: after inserting, hold the sham at the opening and gently shake the pillow toward the top seam to seat it. This helps corners fill out and makes everything look sharper.

Method 2: No-Sew “Envelope Sham” Hack (When You Don’t Want to Thread Anything)

If your relationship with sewing machines is “we respect each other from a distance,” you can still create an envelope-style back with heat-bond hem tape or fabric adhesive.

What you can (and can’t) expect

• Great for: decorative pillows, guest rooms, seasonal swaps
• Not ideal for: heavy weekly washing, aggressive pillow fights, pets who believe bedding is a sport

No-sew steps

1. Plan the back overlap (same 6–10″ overlap goal).
2. Fold raw edges inward to create a clean hem and press.
3. Apply hem tape inside the fold and iron to bond (follow the product instructions).
4. Overlap the back flaps and secure perimeter with hem tape or a neat line of fabric adhesive.
5. Let adhesives fully cure before inserting pillows (this is where impatience ruins everything).

If you’re using fabric glue, use a thin, consistent line. “More glue” is not “more better.” More glue is “more crunchy.”

Optional Upgrade: Add a Flange for the Full “Store-Bought Sham” Look

A flange is that extra fabric frame around the pillow. It’s what makes a sham look dressed upeven if your bed is currently hosting three unfolded hoodies and a questionable snack wrapper.

Easy flange approach (sew method)

1. Cut a strip of fabric long enough to go around all four sides of the pillow front.
2. Pick a flange width: 1.5″ to 3″ is common (wider reads more traditional).
3. Sew the strip to the front panel first, then assemble with the back panels.
4. Topstitch around the inner edge of the flange to help it “stand up” instead of flopping.

Want the flange to behave? Pressing is your secret weapon. Press seams open/flat, then topstitch. Flanges that aren’t pressed tend to droop like they’re tired of pretending to be fancy.

Design Ideas That Look Expensive (But Aren’t)

1) Ribbon ties or a bow detail

If your pillowcase print is bold (like paisley), adding a simple tie can make the sham feel custom. Add two or three small ribbon ties across the back opening so the overlap stays closed and looks intentional.

2) Mix-and-match fronts and backs

Use a patterned pillowcase for the front and a solid or neutral fabric for the back. This saves money (you don’t need two matching pillowcases) and gives you a more designer look.

3) “Hotel bed” layering with Euro shams

If you want the hotel vibe, put two Euro pillows in the back row, then your standard sleeping pillows in front. Even budget shams look high-end when the bed is layered intentionally.

Fabric and Care Tips (The Stuff That Saves Your Project After Laundry Day)

Pre-wash: yes, usually

Cotton can shrink. If you make shams, wash them, and suddenly they fit like skinny jeans from 2007, that’s shrinkage. Pre-wash and dry your fabric (or pillowcases) the way you’ll launder them later.

Choose fabrics that match your real life

• Cotton percale: crisp, breathable, easy to sew
• Cotton sateen: smoother, slightly shiny, looks luxurious
• Linen blends: relaxed, textured, great for modern styles
• Heavy home decor fabric: structured, great for flanges, but harder to turn corners

How often to wash decorative shams

If the shams are mostly decorative (not slept on), you can wash them less often than pillowcases. If you sleep on them, treat them like regular bedding and wash them on a normal schedule.

Common Mistakes (And How to Avoid the “Why Does This Look Weird?” Moment)

Mistake 1: Not enough back overlap

Fix: Increase overlap to 8–10″. It hides the pillow better and reduces gapping.

Mistake 2: Corners look sad and empty

Fix: Use a slightly smaller cover than the insert, trim corner bulk, and seat the pillow into corners after inserting.

Mistake 3: The sham twists or “pulls”

Fix: Press everything before sewing. Pin more than you think you need. Fabric shifts when it senses fear.

Mistake 4: Flange collapses

Fix: Press, topstitch, and consider a light interfacing if you want crisp structure.

Quick FAQ

Can I make shams without a sewing machine?

Yes. Hem tape and fabric adhesive can work for decorative use. Sewing will last longer and tolerate more washing.

Do I need a zipper?

Nope. Envelope backs are popular because they’re easy, clean-looking, and don’t require hardware.

How long does it take?

If you’re using pillowcases and keeping it simple: about 20–45 minutes per sham with a machine. Longer by hand. No-sew depends on curing time.

Conclusion: A High-Impact Bedroom Upgrade That Costs Less Than Takeout

The best part about DIY pillow shams isn’t just the priceit’s the control. You choose the print, the texture, the vibe. You can match existing bedding, swap seasonally, or go full “statement sham” without paying statement prices.

If you find clearance pillowcases you love, you’re already halfway done. Convert them into sham-style envelope backs, press like you mean it, and your bed instantly looks more styledwithout your budget quietly sobbing in the corner.

Extra: Real-World Experiences and Lessons Learned (So Yours Turn Out Better)

The first time I tried the “cheap pillowcase into sham” idea, I thought the hardest part would be sewing. Plot twist: the hardest part was choosing a print that didn’t make my bedroom look like a themed restaurant. Clearance pillowcases are a blessing, but they can also be… bold. If you’re nervous, start with a small pattern or a textured solid (think chambray, ticking stripe, or anything that whispers “cozy” instead of shouting “I WAS ON SALE!”).

The next surprise was how much pressing matters. I used to treat the iron like it was optionallike a treadmill in January. But pillow shams are basically a billboard for seam quality. If you press the hems and seams as you go, the sham looks crisp and expensive. If you skip pressing, the sham looks like it got dressed in the dark. A quick press also makes your measurements more accurate because wrinkled fabric lies to you.

I also learned to respect the overlap. The first sham I made had a tiny overlap because I wanted it “less bulky.” That sham gapped open every time the pillow shifted, which meant the bed looked messy five minutes after I made it. Increasing the overlap to around 8–10 inches was the fix. It also made insertion easier because the pillow slides under the top flap instead of fighting both flaps at once.

Another real-life tip: don’t underestimate how much pillow inserts affect the final look. A slightly fuller insert makes even a basic DIY sham look more “professional.” If your pillows are older and a little flat, your sham might look flat toono matter how perfect your seams are. Sometimes the best upgrade is stuffing (or replacing) inserts, especially for Euro pillows. If buying new inserts isn’t in the budget, you can sometimes “fluff hack” by doubling up a thin pillow behind another one, or adding a layer of batting in the corners to fill them out.

When I experimented with a no-sew version, it worked beautifully for decorative shams that weren’t handled much. But I wouldn’t recommend it for pillows that get daily use or frequent washing. The hem tape held up well, but fabric glue needed real cure timelike “leave it alone overnight” cure time. If you rush it, you’ll get edges that peel or feel stiff. No-sew is best when you want a seasonal refresh (fall plaid, winter velvet vibe, spring florals) and you’re not planning to launder them constantly.

Finally, the biggest “designer” difference came from small finishing choices: trimming corner bulk, topstitching a clean line, and keeping thread color close to the fabric. Those tiny details are what make the sham look store-boughteven when you proudly know it cost about the same as a fancy coffee. And once you’ve made one set, it’s dangerously easy to start thinking, “What if I made shams for every season?” That’s how craft rooms happen. Consider yourself warned.