Table of Contents >> Show >> Hide
- Perennial basics (in plain English)
- How to choose perennials that actually thrive
- 22 types of perennial flowers (with practical growing tips)
- 1) Coneflower (Echinacea)
- 2) Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia)
- 3) Daylily (Hemerocallis)
- 4) Peony (Paeonia)
- 5) Bearded iris (Iris germanica)
- 6) Lavender (Lavandula)
- 7) Garden phlox (Phlox paniculata)
- 8) Bee balm (Monarda)
- 9) Perennial salvia (Salvia spp.)
- 10) Yarrow (Achillea)
- 11) Catmint (Nepeta)
- 12) Coreopsis (Tickseed)
- 13) Sedum / stonecrop (Hylotelephium and Sedum spp.)
- 14) Shasta daisy (Leucanthemum × superbum)
- 15) Columbine (Aquilegia)
- 16) Hellebore / Lenten rose (Helleborus)
- 17) Hosta
- 18) Astilbe
- 19) Coral bells (Heuchera)
- 20) Hardy geranium / cranesbill (Geranium spp.)
- 21) Russian sage (Salvia yangii, formerly Perovskia)
- 22) Asters (Symphyotrichum spp.)
- Design ideas and plant pairings (steal these combos)
- Care calendar: keep perennials happy without making it your full-time job
- Real-world garden experiences (what it feels like to grow these 22 perennials)
- Wrap-up
- SEO Tags
Perennial flowers are the “buy once, enjoy for years” aisle of the garden world. Plant them well, treat them
decently, and they’ll show up every season like that friend who always remembers your birthdayexcept these
friends also bring color, pollinators, and occasional dramatic flair when you forget to water.
This guide walks through what “perennial” really means, how to choose the right plants for your yard, and a
curated list of 22 popular perennial flowerscovering sunny borders, shady corners, and everything in between.
Perennial basics (in plain English)
A perennial is a plant that lives for more than two years and returns season after season.
Many common garden perennials die back to the ground in winter and regrow from the crown or roots in spring.
Some grow from storage organs like bulbs, tubers, or rhizomesstill “perennial” behavior, just with a built-in
lunchbox for energy.
You’ll also hear people split perennials into hardy and tender. Hardy
perennials survive typical winters in their region; tender perennials may need digging, mulching, or indoor
storage in cold climates. In other words: “perennial” doesn’t automatically mean “unkillable,” but it does mean
“not a one-season wonder.”
How to choose perennials that actually thrive
The biggest secret to a gorgeous perennial garden is also the least exciting: match the plant to the
site. Sun, soil, and moisture matter more than wishful thinking (and more than that adorable plant tag).
1) Start with sunlight
- Full sun: 6+ hours of direct sun (best for many flowering perennials).
- Part sun/part shade: roughly 3–6 hours (often morning sun, afternoon shade).
- Shade: under 3 hours (bright, indirect light counts; deep shade is tougher).
2) Be honest about your soil and watering style
Some perennials love consistent moisture; others prefer leaner, well-drained soil and will sulk if “watered with
love” too often. If your soil stays soggy after rain, prioritize plants that tolerate moistureor improve drainage
with organic matter and thoughtful grading. If your garden bakes in summer, pick drought-tolerant stars and mulch
like you mean it.
3) Plan for seasons, not just a single bloom moment
The easiest way to make a perennial bed look “pro” is to layer bloom times and textures:
spring bloomers + summer workhorses + fall finishers, with interesting foliage throughout.
4) Choose the right kind of “low maintenance”
Low maintenance doesn’t mean no maintenance. It means you’re choosing plants that fit your conditions, resist
common issues, and don’t require constant babysitting. A little deadheading, dividing, and weeding goes a long
waylike brushing your teeth, but for your flower bed.
22 types of perennial flowers (with practical growing tips)
Below are 22 popular types of perennial flowers that gardeners across the U.S. rely on for
color, pollinators, and repeat performance. Exact hardiness varies by species and cultivar, so use these as
dependable “categories,” then choose varieties suited to your climate.
1) Coneflower (Echinacea)
Coneflowers are tough, pollinator-friendly staples with bold daisy-like petals and a raised center cone.
They’re known for handling heat and many soil types once established, making them a go-to for sunny borders.
Tip: Full sun gives the best flowering; deadheading can tidy the plant, but leaving some seed
heads supports birds and winter interest.
2) Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia)
Golden petals with a dark centerclassic summer cheer. Many Rudbeckias act like short-lived perennials but
happily reseed, so they “stick around” with minimal effort.
Tip: Give them sun to partial shade and avoid over-fertilizingtoo much nitrogen can mean more
leaves than flowers.
3) Daylily (Hemerocallis)
Daylilies are famous for being reliable and adaptable. Each bloom may last a day, but plants produce many buds,
so the show continues. They’re great for beginners and for filling large areas quickly.
Tip: Divide clumps every few years if flowering decreases or the center looks crowded.
4) Peony (Paeonia)
Peonies are spring’s luxury item: big, fragrant blooms and a long life span when planted correctly.
They dislike frequent moving, so pick a spot you’ll love for years.
Tip: Support heavy blooms with a ring or stakes, and plant at the proper depth for good flowering.
5) Bearded iris (Iris germanica)
Iris flowers look like living origamidramatic, architectural, and surprisingly easy when they’re happy.
Their rhizomes prefer good drainage and sun.
Tip: Don’t bury rhizomes too deeply; they like a bit of sun exposure. Divide every 3–5 years for vigor.
6) Lavender (Lavandula)
Lavender brings fragrance, silvery foliage, and a “vacation in Provence” vibewithout the airfare.
It typically prefers full sun and excellent drainage.
Tip: In humid or heavy-soil areas, raised beds and gritty soil amendments can help keep roots healthy.
7) Garden phlox (Phlox paniculata)
Garden phlox offers tall, colorful clusters that bloom in summer and attract butterflies.
Tip: Improve air circulation by spacing plants well, and consider mildew-resistant varieties if humidity is high.
8) Bee balm (Monarda)
Bee balm is a pollinator magnet with shaggy, firework-like blooms in mid-to-late summer.
It spreads, which can be a feature or a surprisedepending on your personality.
Tip: Thin or divide to reduce crowding; look for resistant varieties to minimize powdery mildew issues.
9) Perennial salvia (Salvia spp.)
Many salvias produce upright flower spikes in blues, purples, pinks, or reds and are beloved by bees and hummingbirds.
Tip: Most prefer sun and well-drained soil; trimming after the first flush can encourage rebloom in many types.
10) Yarrow (Achillea)
Yarrow thrives in sunny spots and often performs best in leaner, well-drained soiloverly rich soil can make it flop.
Flat-topped blooms are great for cutting and for beneficial insects.
Tip: If stems get leggy, cut back after flowering for a tidier second act.
11) Catmint (Nepeta)
Catmint is long-blooming, aromatic, and generally unfussyan excellent “soft edge” plant along paths.
Tip: Shear back after the first big bloom to encourage a fresh flush of flowers and neat growth.
12) Coreopsis (Tickseed)
Coreopsis brings sunny, daisy-like blooms that can keep going for weeks, especially with deadheading.
Many varieties handle heat well.
Tip: Use it in mass plantings for maximum impact and a bright, meadow-like feel.
13) Sedum / stonecrop (Hylotelephium and Sedum spp.)
Sedums are prized for succulent-like foliage and late-season blooms that feed pollinators when other flowers fade.
Tip: Full sun and good drainage are key. Taller types can be “pinched” early in the season to reduce flopping.
14) Shasta daisy (Leucanthemum × superbum)
Bright white petals, sunny centers, and classic bouquet energy. Shasta daisies are great for cottage gardens and cutting beds.
Tip: Deadhead to extend bloom, and divide clumps when the center thins or flowering declines.
15) Columbine (Aquilegia)
Columbines have nodding, spurred flowers that feel whimsical and a little magicallike woodland jewelry.
Many are short-lived perennials but reseed readily.
Tip: Give them part shade in hotter climates, and let some flowers go to seed if you want naturalized drifts.
16) Hellebore / Lenten rose (Helleborus)
Hellebores can bloom very early, sometimes while winter is still negotiating its exit. They’re shade-tolerant and valued
for evergreen or semi-evergreen foliage in many regions.
Tip: Plant in well-drained soil; remove tired old leaves in late winter to show off blooms and reduce disease.
17) Hosta
Hostas are the reliable shade classicsmostly grown for foliage, but many produce lovely summer flower spikes too.
Tip: Slugs can be an issue in damp shade. Use mulch thoughtfully and keep the area tidy to reduce hiding spots.
18) Astilbe
Astilbe brings feathery plumes and elegant foliage to shady, moisture-retentive areas. It’s a top pick for woodland gardens.
Tip: Consistent moisture is your friend hereespecially during hot spells. Morning sun with afternoon shade is often ideal.
19) Coral bells (Heuchera)
Coral bells are foliage superstars: lime, caramel, purple, near-blackyour garden can basically wear a new outfit.
They also bloom with airy flower sprays.
Tip: In climates with freeze-thaw cycles, check for “heaving” and tuck crowns back in if they rise above the soil.
20) Hardy geranium / cranesbill (Geranium spp.)
Not to be confused with annual geraniums, hardy geraniums make excellent groundcover with long bloom periods in many varieties.
They’re great for edging and for weaving between taller plants.
Tip: A midsummer trim can refresh foliage and sometimes encourage a second wave of blooms.
21) Russian sage (Salvia yangii, formerly Perovskia)
Russian sage offers airy lavender-blue flower sprays and silvery stems that shimmer in the sun. It’s especially useful for
heat and drought-prone areas once established.
Tip: Avoid overly rich soil and heavy fertilizer; lean conditions often produce sturdier plants and better bloom.
22) Asters (Symphyotrichum spp.)
Asters are the fall finalestars when the garden needs one more big moment. They’re also valuable late-season nectar sources.
Tip: Pinching stems back in late spring can create bushier plants with more flowers later (and fewer floppy surprises).
Design ideas and plant pairings (steal these combos)
A sunny, low-water border
Pair lavender, yarrow, catmint, sedum, and
coneflower for long bloom, fragrance, and pollinators. Use gravel or coarse mulch in the hottest
zones for better drainage and fewer weeds.
A pollinator-friendly “all-season” bed
Build layers: early interest with hellebore, summer color with salvia and
bee balm, and a strong finish with asters and sedum. Add
black-eyed Susan for mid-summer punch and butterflies.
A shade garden that doesn’t feel like a compromise
Combine hosta and coral bells for foliage contrast, then add
astilbe for plumes and hellebore for early blooms. The result is texture-rich
even when flowers aren’t the main event.
A classic cottage garden look
Mix peonies, garden phlox, Shasta daisies, and
bearded iris. This combo reads “storybook” fastespecially with a curving path and a bench you
pretend you’ll sit on (but mostly use as a potting shelf).
Care calendar: keep perennials happy without making it your full-time job
Spring
- Cut back last year’s stems once new growth appears (leave some stems until then for overwintering insects).
- Top-dress with compost and refresh mulch (keep mulch off crowns to reduce rot).
- Divide overcrowded clumps if needed (many perennials respond well to division in spring or fall).
Summer
- Water deeply but less often to encourage strong roots (especially the first year).
- Deadhead where it makes sense: phlox, daisies, coreopsis, and salvia often benefit.
- Watch airflow and spacing to reduce mildew on susceptible plants.
Fall
- Leave some seed heads (coneflower and rudbeckia look great and feed birds).
- Plant or divide fall-friendly perennials when temperatures cool and soil is still workable.
- Mulch after the ground starts to cool for winter protection in colder regions.
Year 1 reminder (the “sleep, creep, leap” phenomenon)
Many perennials focus on roots their first year (“sleep”), fill out in year two (“creep”), and hit their stride
in year three (“leap”). This is normaland it’s why patience is a gardening superpower.
Real-world garden experiences (what it feels like to grow these 22 perennials)
If you’ve ever planted a perennial and then stared at it daily like it owes you rent, you’re not alone. One of
the most common “perennial experiences” is the emotional whiplash of year one: you plant a gorgeous-looking pot,
water it, talk nicely to it, and then it… barely changes. That first season is often root-building season, which
is fantastic for the plant and mildly insulting to the gardener. The payoff usually arrives later, when the same
plant returns stronger and fuller and suddenly looks like you knew what you were doing all along.
Another very real experience: learning which plants are “politely enthusiastic” and which ones are
“enthusiastic in a way that requires boundaries.” Bee balm and some hardy geraniums can spread and fill space,
which is a gift if you want a lush look quicklyand a chore if you were aiming for tidy, symmetrical perfection.
On the flip side, peonies and bearded irises can be wonderfully well-behaved, but they’ll ask you to respect
their preferences: good drainage, sensible planting depth, and not being moved around like furniture during a
living-room refresh.
Gardeners also tend to notice that the easiest perennials are often the ones that fit the site. A sunny bed that
dries out fast can make moisture-lovers miserable, but it can turn drought-tolerant plants into superstars. When
lavender, yarrow, sedum, and Russian sage are in the right place, they’re the low-maintenance friends who show
up looking great even after a heat wave. Put those same plants in heavy, wet soil and you may get the opposite
experience: fewer flowers, more stress, and the kind of “Why is it doing that?” conversations that happen only
in gardens.
Shade gardens come with their own set of lived-in lessons. People often expect shade to mean “nothing blooms,”
but the experience is more nuanced: shade is where foliage becomes the main design tool. Hostas and coral bells
create contrast for months, astilbe adds texture and plumes, and hellebores can surprise you with early-season
flowers when the rest of the yard is still waking up. The most satisfying shade-garden moment is realizing your
“problem corner” can become the most elegant part of the landscapequiet, layered, and intentionally calm.
There’s also the annual rhythm that perennial gardeners get to enjoy: early spring cleanup, the first spikes of
salvia and iris foliage, the big bloom weeks, then the midsummer maintenance decisions. Many gardeners learn to
love strategic trimmingespecially with plants like catmint, salvia, and hardy geraniumbecause a midseason cut
can turn something scruffy into something fresh. It’s not complicated maintenance; it’s more like a haircut:
you’re not changing who the plant is, just helping it look its best.
Finally, perennials teach the experience of “layering time.” Asters and sedum bloom later, so gardeners often
feel a little smug in early fall when neighbors’ annuals are fading and their perennials are just getting started.
And even when flowers aren’t blooming, many perennials still contribute structureseed heads, dried stems, and
winter silhouettes that make the garden feel alive year-round. The longer you grow perennials, the more your
garden becomes less of a single-season display and more of a familiar, evolving placeone that changes, improves,
and occasionally surprises you in the best ways.
