How To Drill Into Brick – This Old House

If you’ve ever stood in front of a beautiful brick wall holding a drill in one hand and a TV mount in the other thinking, “This is how it ends,” take a breath. Drilling into brick looks intimidating, but with the right tools, technique, and a little This Old House–style discipline, it’s absolutely a DIY-friendly job.

This guide walks you through when to drill into brick (and when not to), how to choose the right drill, bit, and anchors, plus pro tips to avoid cracked bricks, stripped holes, and regret. We’ll keep it practical, detailed, and just fun enough that you don’t fall asleep before you pick up the hammer drill.

Brick vs. Mortar: Where Should You Drill?

Before you pull the trigger, you need to decide whether to drill into the brick itself or the mortar joint. That choice determines how secure your installation will be.

Drilling Into Brick

For most permanent or heavy-duty jobsTV mounts, shelves, railings, exterior lights, hose reelsdrilling into the brick is the better option. Solid brick offers stronger, longer-lasting holding power than soft mortar. When you drill into sound brick (not crumbling, spalled, or cracked), anchors are less likely to loosen over time from vibration, moisture, or seasonal movement.

• Best for: Heavy or important loads (TVs, cabinets, handrails, gates, structural hardware).
• Aim for: The center area of the brick face, at least 1 inch away from edges to reduce cracking risk.

Drilling Into Mortar

Mortar is softer and easier to drill, which makes it tempting. For very light loads or temporary fixtures, it can work, especially on older or fragile brick where you’d rather sacrifice mortar than damage a face brick.

• Best for: Light items such as fairy lights, seasonal décor, or small clips.
• Drawback: Mortar weathers faster than brick. Anchors may loosen sooner, so it’s not ideal for anything you’d be upset to see fall.

Practical rule of thumb: when in doubt and the brick is in good condition, drill into brick for strength; use mortar strategically for light or sacrificial installs and old, delicate walls.

Tools and Materials You’ll Need

1. Drill (Hammer Drill Preferred)

A regular drill can work in softer masonry, but for real brick, a hammer drill makes life dramatically easier. The hammering action chips the material as the bit spins, so you’re not burning up your bit, your patience, and your battery at the same time.

• Hammer drill: Best choice for most brick walls.
• Rotary hammer: For very hard brick, block, or when drilling many large holes.
• Corded vs. cordless: Corded offers consistent power; modern cordless hammer drills are excellent for residential projects.

2. Masonry Drill Bits

Do not grab your wood or metal bits for this job. Masonry bits have a carbide tip designed to withstand impact and abrasion.

• Match bit diameter to the anchor or masonry screw manufacturer’s recommendation.
• Use sharp, high-quality bits; dull bits cause heat, dust clogging, and chipped brick.

3. Anchors, Screws, and Hardware

• Plastic expansion anchors: Light to medium loads.
• Sleeve anchors / wedge anchors: Heavy loads like TV mounts, large shelves, railings.
• Masonry screws (e.g., blue concrete screws): Fast and secure when sized and installed correctly.

4. Safety Gear

• Safety glasses or goggles
• Dust mask or respirator (brick dust is no joke)
• Hearing protection (hammer drills are loud, your ears are permanent)
• Work gloves for grip and protection

5. Helpful Extras

• Painters tape or bit stop for depth marking
• Permanent marker or pencil for layout
• Level for aligning multiple holes
• Vacuum or blower for dust removal
• Small block of wood as a drilling guide to keep the bit from wandering

Pre-Drilling Checklist (Do Not Skip)

1. Inspect the Brick

Look for cracked, spalling, or soft bricks. Skip those. Choose solid units. On veneer walls, confirm you’re not drilling into something structural or into a damp, failing section.

2. Check for Utilities

Especially on interior brick or fireplace surrounds, be mindful of electrical, plumbing, or gas lines. Use a stud/voltage detector rated for masonry where possible, and avoid blindly drilling in suspicious spots.

3. Plan Your Layout

Mark your hole positions accurately. Use the bracket, shelf, or fixture as a template. Keep holes level, spaced according to the hardware, and away from brick edges. Measure twice, drill once, avoid creative language later.

4. Choose Your Target: Brick vs. Mortar

Confirm if this is a load you’d cry about if it fell. If yes: brick. If no: mortar may be acceptable. Lock this in before you start.

Step-by-Step: How to Drill Into Brick

Step 1: Mark and Set Your Depth

1. Hold your bracket or template in place.
2. Mark the center of each hole on the brick face.
3. Check with a level.
4. Measure the required embedment depth based on the anchor or screw instructions.
5. Wrap painter’s tape around the drill bit at that depth, or set the depth stop on your hammer drill.

Step 2: Create a Starter Dimple

Place the masonry bit on your mark and gently tap the back of the drill or use a center punch to create a tiny dimple. This keeps the bit from skating across the brick face like it’s late for a meeting.

Step 3: Drill with Control, Not Aggression

1. Set the drill to hammer mode (if available) and a medium to high speed.
2. Hold the drill perpendicular (90 degrees) to the wall.
3. Squeeze the trigger slowly until the bit “bites.”
4. Maintain firm, steady pressuredon’t lean your whole body weight into it.
5. Every few seconds, pull the bit slightly out while spinning to clear dust from the hole.
6. Stop when you reach your tape/stop depth.

If the bit smokes, stops cutting, or the brick starts flaking heavily, stop. Let the bit cool, check sharpness, and reassess your drilling location and pressure.

Step 4: Clean the Hole

Blow out or vacuum the dust from each hole. Dust left inside reduces anchor grip and can cause hardware to work loose over time.

Step 5: Install Anchors and Hardware

1. Insert the correct anchor flush with the surface.
2. Set your fixture in place.
3. Drive screws snugly, without overtightening and crushing brick or anchor.

Test by gently loading the fixture. If it wiggles, back up and troubleshoot before trusting it with a $900 TV.

Choosing the Right Anchor for Brick

Lightweight Installs (Decor, Hooks, Small Fixtures)

• Plastic expansion anchors or small masonry screws.
• 3/16″–1/4″ holes typically sufficient.
• Mortar may be acceptable for truly light, non-critical items.

Medium Loads (House Numbers, Mailbox, Hose Reel)

• High-quality plastic or nylon anchors or masonry screws rated for exterior use.
• Always into solid brick when exposed to weather or frequent use.

Heavy Loads (TVs, Shelves, Railings, Large Fixtures)

• Sleeve anchors, wedge anchors, or structural masonry screws.
• Multiple fasteners into solid brick, not mortar.
• Follow manufacturer’s instructions for spacing, depth, and diameterno improvising here.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Using the wrong bit: Wood/metal bits will dull, burn, and may damage the brick.
• No hammer function on hard brick: You’ll glaze the surface instead of drilling it.
• Drilling too close to edges: Increases risk of cracking the brick.
• Overtightening: Can strip anchors or crumble the hole.
• Skipping PPE: Brick dust plus no eye protection is a terrible combo.
• Ignoring wall type: Brick veneer vs. solid masonry vs. block all behave differently; don’t assume.

FAQ: Quick Answers Before You Make Dust

Can I Use a Regular Drill?

Yes, on softer masonry and for a few small holes, with good masonry bits. For dense brick or multiple holes, a hammer drill is worth it for speed, safety, and sanity.

Should I Drill Into Brick or Mortar for a TV?

Use brick with heavy-duty anchors. A TV is not a “let’s see what happens” project.

What If the Brick Starts Cracking?

Stop immediately. Move the hole to a different brick, use a pilot hole, reduce pressure, and make sure your bit is sharp and correctly sized.

Conclusion & Real-World Experiences: Doing It the This Old House Way

Drilling into brick isn’t about brute force; it’s about pairing the right tool with the right technique and respecting how masonry behaves. When you understand where to drill, how deep to go, and which anchor belongs in the hole, your installs feel solid, look clean, and stay put season after season.

Lessons from the Field (Approx. of Hard-Earned Wisdom)

1. The “One Bit for Everything” Myth. Many DIYers try to use a single, tired masonry bit for an entire house worth of holes. In practice, that bit overheats, dulls, and starts polishing the brick instead of cutting it. The result? Smoke, wobbling holes, and anchors that spin. Experienced pros rotate bits, let them cool, and replace them when cutting slows. Fresh carbide costs less than repairing a busted wallor replacing a fallen TV.

2. Pilot Holes Save Brick. On tougher brick, starting with a smaller pilot hole before stepping up to the final diameter dramatically reduces stress. Pros use this approach around fireplaces, chimneys, and older facades where brick is more brittle. That tiny extra step is the difference between a clean mount and a spiderweb crack you can’t unsee.

3. Depth Control Is Not Optional. Many “near misses” come from over-drilling: blasting past the needed depth, chewing up the back of the hole, or hitting something unexpected. Using a depth stop or painter’s tape gives you consistency. On high-end mounts and specialty anchors, hitting the exact embedment depth is what delivers the rated load capacitynot “more just in case.”

4. Dust Is the Silent Failure. A lot of first-time installers do everything right, then leave the hole packed with dust. The anchor never truly grips, and weeks later the screws feel loose. Pros treat dust removal as part of the installation, not cleanup. A quick vacuum, blower, or even a few firm puffs makes a measurable difference in holding power.

5. Brick Type and Age Matter. Newer modular brick is often harder and denser than some older, softer clay bricks. On vintage homes, seasoned contractors sometimes deliberately choose mortar joints for non-structural items to spare historic brick faces. On newer structures, they favor the brick body for serious loads. Reading the walldensity, condition, patternbecomes second nature with experience, and it’s worth pausing to do the same.

6. Layout Is Everything for Visible Installs. Crooked holes turn straight brackets into crooked brackets. Pros dry-fit, mark with templates, and check with a level twice, especially for TV mounts, house numbers, mailboxes, and lighting. That extra two minutes prevents “drunken hardware syndrome,” where every screw line looks slightly off and you can’t stop noticing it.

7. Respect the Wall, Not Just the Load. The best installers think beyond “will this hold?” and ask, “If someone removes this in 10 years, will the wall still be okay?” They avoid unnecessary giant holes, stay clear of corners and edges, and choose anchors that can be removed and patched neatly. That mindset is pure This Old House: do it strong, do it clean, and do it so the next person doesn’t curse your name.

Follow these habits and you won’t just know how to drill into brickyou’ll do it with the calm confidence of someone who’s not gambling with masonry, money, or gravity.

SEO Summary (For Publishers)

sapo: Want to mount a TV, railing, mailbox, or décor on a brick wall without cracking itor your nerves? This in-depth This Old House–style guide shows you exactly where to drill (brick vs. mortar), which tools and anchors to use, how to control depth and dust, and the real-world tricks pros rely on so your hardware stays rock-solid indoors and out.